Creative/Art Direction & Styling By Natalie Schmidt; Photographed By Anita Hodges

Hi. My name is Brooke. I am fat, black and a woman-- one of the most underrepresented group of people there is. In any given situation, these traits have already labeled me to the world before I ever even have a chance to introduce myself.

Growing up fat, I was always pushed to lose weight; whether it was subtle nudges to go outside to walk around the block, or someone asking me “Why are you hungry again?” However, nothing compares to the discomfort I have when someone makes a joking comment about a plus size person on TV who happens to be smaller than I am.

I also notice how my existence as fat black woman can make others uncomfortable. I constantly wonder if I’m being hypersensitive, but I know I’m not, because all I have to do is ask myself:

Are unarmed black people being senselessly murdered by police? Yes.

Are those accused officers getting away with it? Yes.

Is there a hateful reemergence of public racism and bigotry? Yes! (Key word: public, as POC have always been quietly aware of hate)

Are white women paid $0.79 to the white man’s dollar? Yes.

Black women, $0.63? Yes.

Are fat people recorded while working out and ridiculed on social media? Yes.

Are womens’ reproductive rights being challenged by men who aren’t directly affected? Yes.

Yes. Yes. Yes!

There is not a day that goes by that if you belong to any of these subgroups you aren't reminded of how cruel people truly can be.

Now, thanks in part to social media we are able to see examples of these social cruelties and injustices live in real time. We begin to notice how often we are so cruel to one another in the world, and that exposure can start to feel overwhelming. That much heightened awareness can depress you, it can desensitize you, and at times make you anxious.

The anxiety is what affects me the most, because it leaves the open ended question of: what are you doing to either bring more awareness to these circumstances, or what are you doing to encourage resolve?

I ask everyone reading this: What are you doing?

Here’s a part of what I’m doing, or rather, how I was able to incorporate it into my work. I make an effort to showcase the incoming fashion trends while also placing the spotlight on women’s social issues. In one particular shoot, I styled our diverse models in sheer fabrics to showcase the strength of womens’ bodies in contrast with the highly exposed material. I was attracted to the symbolism of the fabric, in that the mesh exuded power and sexuality. Most important to me is that my models comprise a size- and color-inclusive group because I know what it is like to grow up without representation in media. When I got the chance to create my own tableau, I wanted to make other girls like me proud to see strong examples of themselves in an expression of creative art and fashion.

AS IS EDITORIAL: What do inclusivity and diversity in fashion mean to you?

BROOKE GOODWIN: I remember reading a quote about representation that was like: “If you want to make a human being into a monster, deny them, at the cultural level, any reflection of themselves. I want to make mirrors, so that kids like me might see themselves reflected and not feel monstrous about it.”

The way I interpret this is: it’s not necessary to have seen someone who looks like you accomplish the same goals you’ve set for yourself, but it is nonetheless as pivotal as it is extremely inspiring. It lets you know that it’s not impossible. Fashion and design are so important to life because they are universally enjoyed and a part of everyone’s lives no matter where they come from. Naturally, diversity and inclusivity makes a difference towards representing all cultures’ standards of beauty, not just those that are Euro-centric.

What social movements influence your work?

This past year has been one of intense self-reflection. Growth, gratitude, and focus have been key words for me.  The 2016 election left me with a feeling of unrest and disbelief. Luckily that didn’t last for long. I found myself surrounded by people who were out in the streets being proactive in voicing their beliefs, standing up for themselves and others.   Within the last year I attended a Black Lives Matter rally, the Women’s March and the Slut Walk. These events made me feel closer to women. I knew I wanted to express the feeling of empowerment that happens when women work together and love each other while also making WOC their most significant focus. I was immensely inspired by the visual project of Solange [Knowles], who made an alluring dedication to black women with her album, A Seat at the Table.

What messages or ideals of feminism do you connect with most? How do you implement them or hope to implement them in your work?

Liberal feminism has many ideals I personally agree with. The ideal and message I most connect with is gender equality. For example, there is no logical reason for the wage gap. What explanation can one give for paying someone less money than another equally qualified person based on race or gender? I also strongly agree pro-choice and believe that a woman should have complete control of her body. My main goal with all my work is to send a message of self-love and acceptance, while being fashionable.

In what parts of your life do you experience the expression of intersectionality? In what places would you like to see a reflection of your specific intersectionality, in art, fashion and society?

In LA you get the exciting opportunity to live in a place that sets the trends for the whole country. I prefer to live in a place where I can see people who look like me everywhere. There is a comfort that comes over you when you see people who look like you, and have shared similar life experiences.

I purposely attend events for causes I want to support in order to get a sense of representation in my local culture. Fashion has gotten better at reflecting intersectionality, it’s not perfect yet, but it is better. Issues of underrepresentation encourage people to start their own projects. We’ve seen the resurgence of Black shows like Atlanta and Insecure excel in the mainstream, and hip-hop has become the most popular music in America. When there is a shift like this, all media begins to reflect it and it’s electrifying to live and create in the city where it all comes from. 

Can you recall a time when racism and/or prejudice directly affected you? How did you feel? How did you process your feelings and experience?

What comes to mind are microaggressions in the workplace. I’ve been told “You’re so strong that it can be intimidating, sometimes you come in with an attitude, you can be aggressive at times.” These are dog-whistle statements often said to black women to cast them into a lower status, and to coddle the fragility of those in positions of superiority...and it’s bullshit. People want you to be meek and passive so that you fit into the box they want you in. They do not want you to stand up for yourself and to just accept the status quo. 

How do those experiences inspire your work and the overall message you want to convey?

Hearing stories about microaggressions from friends and even my mother solidify to me that I’m not just being hypersensitive. The best thing I can do is to continue to push images of people of color in my work so that they feel seen and heard, and therefore represented.

Where do you find hope and inspiration in your life to express your sense of power?

God, and my family. These are the most important factors in my everyday life. They encourage me, and check me when I’m wrong. My family champions me and roots for me harder than anyone else, and they are my soundboard. Any idea or project I have, I run by them first. My time with God allows me to speak my goals into existence and allows me to be free. 

Whom in fashion and art do you follow on social media that you think others would find powerful and impactful? What is it about those people and their message that you connect to?

[Fashion Blogger] Figtny, Solange, Erykah Badu, [Beauty Blogger] Lauren Faye. All of these women have extremely unique styles. These women also comment on social issues and share themselves honestly. While unique, they are very clear and defined-- I adore that! I’ve been tirelessly working on committing my style to black, white and grey, with a mix of neutral earth tones.

Do you consider fashion your art form? Is there any other medium you would want to pursue?

Fashion is definitely my art form. A huge part of the enjoyment I derive from creative direction is the organization and planning phases that go into it. Nothing makes me happier than planning a shoot, creating mood boards, and assisting with runway shows. Fortunately, fashion also merges so often with music. I love music, but can’t sing or play any instruments. Any other medium I would pursue would solely be in the form of a hobby. 

What are your goals professionally and what do you hope that brings to you as a personal gain?

I’m going into business for myself as a creative director: planning runway shows for fashion week, magazine spreads, and music videos. I want to work with upcoming designers and artists whose vision excites me. This pursuit fulfills me-- it is not even about a feeling of hope for me. No matter what, I know that the work I’m doing is going to do exactly what it’s supposed to-- shine a light on the underrepresented.

To see Brooke Goodwin’s work, follow @coverofabrooke on Instagram.

Special thanks to Brooke Goodwin for her contribution to AS IS Editorial.